When most people think of Hawaiian dresses, they envision grass skirts or mu'u mu'us. However, almost no one outside of the islands thinks of the holoku, the traditional wedding gown worn by Hawaiians. Since its introduction in the 1800s, the holoku has been worn for special occasions, such as weddings, as a symbol of early Hawaiian culture.
History
The holoku was introduced to island natives in 1820 by Christian missionaries. The female missionaries arrived wearing long dresses which had narrow skirts, short waists and tight, long sleeves. Hawaiian royalty, called ali’i, enjoyed Western fashions they had acquired through trading. They thought the dresses were beautiful and requested they be sewn for them as well. This dress, called the "holoku," was soon adopted as everyday wear by the Hawaiian women who had converted to Christianity. By 1838, all Hawaiian women wore the holoku as standard daily dress.
Early Holoku
Like the dresses worn by the European missionary women, the early holoku was very conservative, with a high neckline and wrist-length sleeves. It had a full, straight skirt and was very simple. However, the pattern had to be adapted slightly to fit the much larger native women, so the waistline was eliminated and replaced with a yoke above the bust. Most women noted how comfortable it was and how easily they could maneuver in it.
Fashion Holoku
By the early 1900s, a dressier version of the holoku had emerged. Unlike the traditional, everyday holoku, this dress was much more formal. It had a lower neckline, longer train and more form-fitting silhouette. Seamstresses added fine details such as eyelets, pintucking and ruffles, to make the gowns more elegant and fancy. Later, the yoke was eliminated completely from the design. Ruffles, made to resemble a lei, were commonly added to the neckline.
Modern Holoku
Since its introduction in the 1800s, the silhouette of the holoku has changed considerably. It fits very closely to the body, has a shorter train and no yoke. Also, it is common to see short-sleeved and sleeveless styles instead of the traditional conservative pattern. However, the basic style has been maintained throughout the centuries--it is still a long gown and does not have a waistline.
Purpose
Today, the holoku is not worn as an everyday garment. Much like the "fashion holoku" of the early 20th century, it has become a formal gown, worn mainly for special occasions such as weddings or balls. It is often made of fine fabrics, such as silk, satin or velvet, which further emphasize its formal nature. In any case, it is often worn as a celebration of early Hawaiian heritage and culture.
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